If your horse is overweight, ask whether it really needs a rug, or a lighter one. Digesting fibre keeps horses warm, and using energy to keep warm helps weight loss.
Horse care tips
Short, practical advice for every part of the year. Tips for October come first.
Take your horse's rug off every day to check for rubs or sore spots, then refit it. Check the forecast daily to decide whether a rug is needed at all.
Egg counts don't reliably detect tapeworm. Use a saliva or blood test instead, ideally in spring and autumn.
Encysted small redworm larvae hide in the gut wall over winter and don't show up in egg counts. Ask your vet or SQP about a blood test or a winter dewormer.
In wet, mild weather, redworm larvae can travel up to three metres from a dropping in about five days. Keep up regular poo-picking when it's damp.
Sticky yellow bot fly eggs on your horse's legs? Scrape them off with a bot knife to help break the bot fly's life cycle.
Hooves that swing between wet fields and dry stables are more prone to abscesses. Brushing off dried mud rather than hosing it can help.
In wet months, check your horse's lower legs daily for scabs, heat or swelling. Treating mud fever as soon as it starts gives the best chance of success.
'Mud fever' covers several skin conditions. If you're unsure, ask your vet to confirm what it is before you start treating it.
When washing mud fever, use warm water and a very dilute antiseptic — never cold water, and never neat antiseptic on the skin — then dry the leg thoroughly.
Barrier creams can help prevent mud fever before turnout — but only apply them to clean, dry skin, never over existing sores.
Before winter, put hardstanding around gateways, shelters and water troughs. It reduces poaching, and the bacteria behind mud fever live in wet soil.
Thick feathers make it hard to get legs properly dry. For a horse with mud fever, clipping the legs may be needed to clear it up.
A healthy adult horse is comfortable between about 5°C and 25°C. Below 5°C it warms itself by eating more forage, seeking shelter and moving.
To judge if your horse is cold, feel its neck, withers and body — not its legs, ears or face, which naturally run cooler.
Rug for your horse, not for how cold you feel. Over-rugging can cause sweating, discomfort, weight gain and skin problems.
Keep a spare rug so you can swap it if one gets soaked through.
Don't keep a horse rugged 24/7. On dry or milder days, let it have fresh air and sun on its back.
A clipped horse has lost part of its natural insulation. It may need a rug when temperatures drop below about 5°C to stay comfortable and hold its weight.
For an overweight horse, a small neck-and-belly clip without a rug can — done carefully — help it burn more energy over winter.
If your horse scores below 2 out of 5 for fat, talk to your vet about its health, and use a rug when temperatures drop.
Make sure horses living out can reach shelter, natural or man-made. Donkeys need a fully waterproof shelter.
Getting a horse used to clippers? Go in small steps — noise at a distance, then touch, then vibration — rewarding calm at each stage, over several short sessions.
A nervous horse's first clip can be done in stages over several days. Patchy for a while is better than a frightening experience.
When clipping, wear a hat and sturdy footwear, work on non-slip flooring, keep the cable out of the way, and use a circuit breaker on corded clippers.
Check clipper blades for heat as you work, oil them regularly, and stop for a break if they get hot. Clean, dry coats and sharp blades make clipping easier.
Sweet itch is mostly seen from March to November, when biting midges are active. Don't ignore early signs such as rubbing at the mane or tail.
Keep sweet-itch-prone horses away from standing water, soft mud, woodland and muck heaps — places midges breed. Breezy fields have fewer midges.
For a horse with sweet itch, buy a full-body fly rug and a spare, so you can wash and rotate them.
Gateways and troughs poach fast. Scraping out a semicircle about three horse-lengths wide and laying crushed stone pays off over winter; woodchip breaks down and can make it worse.
If a field has more than one gate, alternate which one you use so each gateway has a chance to dry out.
Sycamore seeds are poisonous to horses; field maple is safe. Sycamore 'helicopters' hang in a downward V, field maple wings are straight across.
Oak trees overhanging a paddock drop acorns in autumn, which can poison horses. Fence them off or clear them up.
Learn ragwort's stages: small seedlings appear in autumn, flat rosettes from early spring, and tall yellow-flowered plants from May to October.
Atypical myopathy peaks in autumn, when horses eat fallen sycamore seeds and leaves. Clear them from the paddock regularly — even fields without sycamores can have seeds blown in.
Atypical myopathy signs include stiffness, muscle tremors, sweating, weakness and dark red or brown urine. It can worsen within hours — call your vet urgently.
On sparse autumn grazing near sycamores, give extra forage — ideally in a hay feeder away from the trees — so horses aren't tempted to forage for seeds.
Where sycamore trees are close to the pasture, limit grazing to under six hours a day in the high-risk seasons.
Avoid harrowing paddocks with sycamore material in autumn — it spreads seeds and leaves across the field and has been linked to higher risk.
The sycamore toxin can pass into water. In high-risk seasons, avoid fields where horses drink from a stream or river, and provide another water supply.
Acorn fall increases after strong winds. Check fields with oaks after autumn storms and clear acorns, or fence off the area under the branches.
Signs of acorn poisoning include acorn husks in droppings, dullness, poor appetite, colic and bloody diarrhoea. Call your vet if you're worried.
If you can't clear acorns straight away, feed good-quality forage well away from the oak trees.
Keep stables well ventilated all year, winter included. Fresh air reduces the risk of breathing problems such as equine asthma.
Make sure stable lights and switches are in safety covers and out of horses' reach, with no exposed wires to chew.
Find out the dates and times of local fireworks displays, and tell neighbours you keep horses so they can warn you about private parties too.
Planning to bring a horse that lives out into a stable for fireworks night? Start a week or so before, set up exactly as you will on the night.
Before fireworks season, check that fire extinguishers, sand and water are close to the stables, and that everyone knows the yard's fire drill.
Foals need a microchip and passport. Apply by 30 November in the year of birth or within six months of birth, whichever is later. Applications can take up to six weeks.
For a few weeks after an event or time away from the yard, keep a closer eye on your horse's temperature, heart rate and breathing.
Feed little and often. Horses evolved to eat small amounts for 16–18 hours a day, and frequent chewing keeps saliva flowing and food moving steadily through the gut.
As a guide, most horses eat 2–2.5% of their bodyweight in feed a day, forage included. For a horse that needs to lose weight, this may drop to about 1.5%.
Change your horse's diet gradually, ideally over 10–14 days. The gut bacteria need time to adapt, and sudden changes raise the risk of colic.
Feed at the same times each day — horses thrive on routine. On DIY livery, agree a feeding rota with other liveries so someone can always cover for you.
Give each horse its own feed bowl, and keep a separate mixing utensil for any feed containing medication, to avoid cross-contamination.
Keep feed in vermin-proof bins. If it stays in the bag, raise it off the floor on pallets so it doesn't spoil.
Never feed mouldy feed or forage. Check each batch before it goes in the bucket or haynet.
Horses on hay or restricted grazing benefit from something succulent each day — apples, carrots or soaked sugar beet add moisture and interest.
Avoid exercising for about an hour after a cereal-based meal: a full stomach presses on the lungs and diverts blood away from digestion.
Let your horse eat some fibre before exercise. It helps stop stomach acid splashing onto the unprotected upper part of the stomach.
Many leisure horses don't need a concentrate at all. A vitamin and mineral supplement or a balancer alongside forage may be all they need.
Grass and hay are often short of vitamin E, copper, zinc and protein, so a broad-spectrum supplement or balancer is recommended even for good doers.
Feed mixes and cubes at the rate on the bag. Feeding less leaves your horse short of nutrients; if that rate is too many calories, a balancer may suit better.
Fibre and oil release energy slowly, which suits stamina work and horses that become excitable on cereal-based feeds.
Grass is up to 90% water. Horses living on hay or restricted grazing get far less from their food, so keep a closer eye on how much they drink.
To cut the sugar in hay, soak it in clean water for 6–12 hours, or in warm water for one hour.
For horses that are overweight, have EMS or are prone to laminitis, forage under 10–12% sugar and starch is usually safer. A forage analysis tells you what you're feeding.
Use haylage fairly quickly once a bale is opened — it keeps only while air is sealed out.
For an overweight horse, soaked hay is usually a better choice than haylage, which tends to be more digestible and higher in energy.
Clean barley or oat straw can replace part of the hay for good doers with sound teeth. Introduce it slowly, and add a balancer to cover vitamins and minerals.
Slice apples and carrots lengthways, never into rounds or cubes, to reduce the risk of choke.
Before adding a supplement, ask your vet or a qualified nutritionist whether your horse actually needs it.
Feed-bag ingredients are listed largest first. Oats or barley near the top means a starchy, high-energy feed; sugar beet or straw pellets suggest a high-fibre one.
Feed makers may not claim a feed treats or prevents conditions such as ulcers or laminitis. Choose by the statutory statement and ingredients, not the marketing.
Competing under a governing body? Look for the BETA NOPS logo: the maker follows codes to keep naturally occurring prohibited substances out of its feeds.
"Fully fortified" on a bag means the feed already supplies a full range of vitamins and minerals at its recommended rate, so you don't need a balancer as well.
On a calorie-controlled diet, slow-feeder haynets and enrichment stretch out eating time so your horse isn't left for long periods without food.
Weigh-tape your horse regularly and note the result. You need a bodyweight to work out how much to feed.
You can't judge a horse's fat by eye. Fat score with your hands — fat feels spongy, muscle feels firmer — across the neck, middle and hindquarters.
On the 0–5 fat scoring scale, 2.5–3 is a healthy score for most horses, unless your vet advises otherwise.
Fat score and weigh-tape your horse every two weeks and write the results down. Horses can gain weight quickly, and records show changes before your eye does.
A weigh tape shows whether weight is going up or down, but not whether it's the right weight. Use it together with fat scoring.
Use the correct side of the weigh tape: the more accurate tapes have a horse side and a pony side, chosen by your horse's height.
Quick rib check: you should feel the ribs easily with light pressure but not see them. Needing firm pressure means too much fat.
Feel the crest. Hard fat that's difficult to wobble from side to side is a warning sign worth discussing with your vet.
Stand a safe distance behind your horse: the quarters should be gently rounded like a letter C. An 'M' shape with a gutter along the spine means excess fat.
Native ponies, cobs and draught types evolved for harsh winters and poor grazing, so they gain weight easily on good pasture, rugs and stabling.
Being overweight more than doubles the risk of laminitis in horses and ponies — one more reason to keep fat scoring year round.
Never crash diet a horse. Cut calories, not the time spent eating — horses need a steady supply of forage to stay healthy.
Make titbits and treats the exception rather than the rule, especially for a good doer.
An overweight horse that lacks energy won't be helped by a high-energy feed — it just adds fat. Weight loss and fitness work bring the energy back.
To burn fat, a brisk walk or steady trot beats faster work. Walking up hills, in hand or ridden, is especially effective.
Don't feed or rug your horse just because others on the yard do. Each horse needs what suits it, even alongside a similar type.
On a track system, spread hay along the track in small-holed nets and put it away from the water, so horses keep moving between resources.
Turning grass into a surfaced pen or track with hardcore or concrete may need permission from the landowner or local authority — check first.
Old dairy pastures are often perennial ryegrass, bred for milk production. Overseeding with timothy, cocksfoot or meadow fescues gives horses coarser, higher-fibre grazing.
Walking over ground poles is a low-intensity way to engage your horse's core and improve joint range of motion. Start simple and build up gradually.
As a good doer's exercise increases, resist adding extra feed. Weight loss needs a calorie deficit; keep the diet forage-based and balanced.
Grazing muzzles aren't recommended for donkeys and their hybrids — restricted diets carry a risk of hyperlipaemia. Ask your vet about alternatives.
Signs of Equine Metabolic Syndrome include fat pads on the crest, tailhead or above the eyes, and difficulty losing weight despite diet and exercise. Talk to your vet.
For native breeds and other horses at higher risk, ask your vet about insulin testing. It helps assess the risk of laminitis and EMS before problems start.
There's no safe season for laminitis. It can strike at any time of year, not just in spring, so keep watching weight and feet year round.
Treat suspected laminitis as an emergency and call your vet straight away — it causes severe pain and can permanently damage the hoof.
Early laminitis can be subtle: shifting weight between feet, reluctance to turn, a shortened stride, or picking a careful path on stony ground.
Don't wait for the classic 'rocking back' stance. It's seen in fewer than half of diagnosed laminitis cases.
Learn to find your horse's digital pulse when all is well. A strong, bounding pulse or heat in the hoof wall can be an early warning of laminitis.
If you suspect laminitis, don't force the horse to walk. If it can move, bring it to a stable with a deep bed, ideally shavings, keep it off grass and wait for your vet.
Virtually all laminitis is linked to high insulin. Weight gain, sugary diets and hormonal conditions such as EMS and PPID all raise insulin levels.
Avoid large concentrate meals in one go. Undigested starch and sugar reaching the hindgut can trigger inflammatory laminitis — split feeds into smaller meals.
Rings on the hoof wall that are wider at the heel than the toe can be a sign of past laminitis. Mention them to your vet and farrier.
Keep to a regular trimming or shoeing routine. Leaving more than eight weeks between visits may contribute to laminitis.
When you pick out feet each day, also feel for heat and check the digital pulse. Call your vet if anything seems different.
A long or curly coat that won't shed, unusual sweating, drinking more and topline muscle loss can all point to PPID (Cushing's). Ask your vet about a blood test.
Travelling for a PPID blood test? Your horse may need to rest for at least 30 minutes before the sample is taken, to avoid an inaccurate result.
PPID medication is usually lifelong. Order refills in advance, watch your horse eat every dose, and keep up the regular tests your vet asks for.
Repeated hoof abscesses or infections that keep coming back can be a sign of PPID. Mention the pattern to your vet.
Know what's normal for your horse — how much it eats, drinks, lies down and how many droppings it passes. Subtle colic shows up as small changes to these.
Not all colic involves rolling. Lying down more, eating less or passing fewer droppings than usual can be early signs.
A horse found much muddier than usual, or with fresh scrapes on its head or hips, may have been rolling violently in the night. Check it for colic.
Call your vet at the first signs of colic. Mild-looking signs don't always mean mild disease, and early treatment can make the difference between life and death.
While waiting for the vet with a colicky horse, don't give any medication unless the vet tells you to — it can mask signs the vet needs to see.
Waiting for the vet with a colicky horse? Usually allow water but not feed, keep everyone safe, and use a well-bedded stable cleared of anything the horse could hurt itself on.
Only hand-walk a colicky horse if your vet recommends it, and never to the point of tiring the horse.
Know your vet-fee insurance limit before an emergency. Colic surgery may cost more than your cover, and it helps to have thought through your options calmly.
Always soak sugar beet thoroughly before feeding. Unsoaked beet is a colic risk, and expanding feeds can also cause choke.
Don't keep horses on sandy, overgrazed paddocks with little grass cover — eating sand off the ground risks sand colic.
Keep concentrates to a minimum, choose low-starch, low-sugar feeds, and split any you do feed into as many small meals a day as you can.
Maximise turnout and free exercise, and keep stabled hours to a minimum — long periods stabled are a colic risk factor.
Keep the number of people caring for your horse small, and make sure each of them knows its habits and routine.
Watch carefully for signs of colic after a journey, especially if water was withheld — transport increases the risk.
Change turnout or stabling time gradually, over at least 10–14 days. Sudden switches between stabling and turnout raise the risk of colic.
Feed hay before a bucket feed, or add chaff to the bucket, so a hungry horse doesn't bolt its feed. Dampening feed also helps it go down.
A large, smooth rock in the feed bucket can slow down a horse that bolts its food.
When feeding horses in a group, leave plenty of space between buckets. Competition makes horses eat fast, and fast eaters are more likely to choke.
Where possible, feed forage and buckets at ground level — it's the natural eating position for a horse.
Older horses are particularly prone to choke. They should have a dental check every six months, and may need soaked complete feeds if they can no longer chew hay.
If your horse's workload drops, cut the concentrate feed too. A gradual switch to a balancer may suit — ask your vet or nutritionist.
Take regular photos of your horse from the same angle. Alongside weigh tapes and fat scoring, they make gradual changes in shape easier to see.
Horse not in regular work? Ask your farrier whether removing its shoes — perhaps just the hinds — would suit it.
Bringing a horse back into work? Resist the 'blow the cobwebs away' canter. Fitness is lost quickly, and joints, tendons and muscles need time to build back up.
Test before you treat. A faecal worm egg count shows whether your horse actually needs a dewormer — routine 'blanket' worming has driven resistance.
In the UK there's now resistance to all five classes of horse dewormer, and no new ones are coming. Use them only when a test shows they're needed.
After deworming, repeat the egg count 10–14 days later. This reduction test checks the treatment worked and spots resistance early.
Pick up droppings from the field at least twice a week. It removes worm eggs before larvae can spread onto the grass.
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