Clipping and rugging

A healthy horse with a winter coat, enough forage and somewhere to shelter is well equipped for a British winter. Clipping and rugging change that balance, so it's worth thinking about why you'd do either, and doing it with care.

How horses keep warm

The BHS explains that a horse has several ways of keeping warm:

• Its coat. In cold weather the hairs stand up and trap a layer of warm air. That's why you sometimes see frost or snow that hasn't melted on a horse's back: the coat is keeping the heat in.
• Forage. Digesting fibre generates heat. Before reaching for a heavier rug, the BHS suggests checking your horse has enough forage.
• Shelter. Hedges, tree lines and field shelters keep off wind and rain. Horses also turn their backs to the weather and stand together.
• Burning energy. Using more energy to keep warm is natural in winter, and lets weight gained over the summer drop off.

World Horse Welfare says horses can usually regulate their body temperature well between 5°C and 25°C. The BHS says many horses stay comfortable without a rug until it drops below 5°C, and that a combination of prolonged rain and wind is more likely to make a horse cold than dry, cold weather.

Does your horse need a rug?

Decide for your horse, not by how cold you feel. The BHS says a horse may benefit from a rug if it is:

• a breed with a naturally fine coat, such as a Thoroughbred or Arab
• underweight, and needs help to save energy in cold weather
• fully or partly clipped (though some horses cope without a rug with a bib or trace clip)
• older or unwell, or finds it hard to regulate its temperature
• in need of protection from biting insects, with a fly rug or sweet itch rug
• cooling down after exercise in cold weather
• travelling in cold weather

Many horses, particularly native breeds and cobs, cope well without a rug when they're healthy, with enough forage and shelter.

World Horse Welfare suggests weighing up:

• Fat score. A horse carrying too much fat is better insulated and won't need a rug.
• The weather, including the "feels like" temperature and how much rain is forecast.
• Forage and shelter. A horse with constant forage and shelter is more likely to keep itself warm.
• Movement. A horse that's turned out can move about to keep warm; a stabled one can't.
• Health. Poor teeth, or a condition such as laminitis that means its forage is limited, affect how well a horse can keep itself warm.
• Coat and clip. Does your horse grow a thick coat, mane and tail? Is it clipped, and how much?
• Age. Very young and older horses may be more likely to need a rug.

Too hot or too cold?

The BHS suggests sliding your hand under the rug behind the withers: your horse should feel comfortably warm and dry, not cold or sweaty.

The risks of over-rugging

The BHS lists several problems with a rug that's too warm or not needed:

• It flattens the coat, so the hair can't trap heat properly.
• It can make the horse sweat, which is uncomfortable and stressful. Horses find it easier to warm up than to cool down.
• It stops an overweight horse losing weight naturally in winter, raising the risk of laminitis.
• Hidden sweating under the rug can leave the coat damp and less insulating. The BHS also says over-rugged horses that get sweaty are more prone to rain scald.
• Rugs block sunlight, which the horse needs to make vitamin D. The BHS suggests about an hour a day without a rug in bright, dry weather.

Temperatures can change a lot through the day. If you can't change the rug, the BHS suggests choosing the lightest suitable one.

Choosing a rug

Weight. The fill tells you how warm a rug is. The BHS gives these bands: lightweight 0–100g, medium 150–300g and heavyweight 350g or more. Only go heavier when your horse shows signs of being cold.

Denier is the strength of the outer fabric. The higher the denier, the stronger and more water-resistant the rug.

Measuring. The BHS's method is to measure with a soft tape from the centre of the chest, around the widest part of the shoulder and along the side of the body to the point of the buttock. Compare it with the maker's size guide, because sizes vary between brands.

Fit. The BHS's checklist for a good fit:

• deep enough to cover the belly, and long enough to cover the tail
• room to slide a flat hand between the neck of the rug and the shoulders and chest
• a hand's width between the belly and where the cross-surcingles cross
• leg straps long enough to link through each other, with a hand's width between the strap and the inside of the leg

A rug that doesn't fit can cause rubs and pressure sores, restrict movement, or, if it's too big, get caught up.

Putting on and taking off a rug

Putting it on. The BHS's current advice:

1. Tie your horse up.
2. Place the folded rug over the withers and neck, check it's in the right place, and fasten the chest strap.
3. Unfold it over the body, so it sits straight and even on both sides. The BHS's teaching notes add: place it forward and slide it backwards so the hair lies flat, rather than throwing it on.
4. Fasten the other straps, secure but not too tight.

The BHS says the order of the straps matters less than a safe, well-fitting rug. Its teaching notes fasten the front first, so the rug can't slide back.

Taking it off. Undo all the straps, starting with any neck cover, and clip the leg straps back onto the rug so they don't dangle. Fold the rug from front to back, then slide it off over the quarters, in the direction of the coat. The BHS's teaching notes warn of what can happen if a horse panics with a rug half off, or if leg straps are left done up.

Check every day. The BHS says to take the rug off every day to check for rubbing, soreness or discomfort, and to refit or change it if needed. A rug left on too long can cause injury. Bransby Horses gives the same advice.

Clipping

Why clip?

Clipping takes away some of the coat, and with it some of the horse's insulation. The sources describe several reasons for a clip:

• Comfort in work. World Horse Welfare mentions clipping a horse to keep it comfortable during exercise. The BHS says some horses with a bib or trace clip cope without a rug.
• Cushing's disease (PPID). Bransby Horses says the condition can cause a long, thick coat that doesn't shed normally, so the horse gets hot and sweaty. A clip helps it stay comfortable and regulate its temperature.
• Weight loss. Bransby Horses clips the neck and belly of some overweight horses, leaving the hair on the back to keep off rain and wind. The horse uses more energy keeping warm. The University of Liverpool's weight guide also suggests considering a trace or hunter clip for an overweight horse, depending on its age, type, hardiness, condition and shelter.
• Sweet itch. Clipping the hair around rubbed, sore areas at the top of the tail or along the mane makes them easier to clean and treat, Bransby says.
• Medical. Patches may be clipped for a veterinary procedure or to treat a wound or skin problem.

A clipped horse may need a rug, an exercise sheet or a cooler, depending on how much is clipped and the weather. Check it regularly to make sure it isn't cold.

Teaching a horse to be clipped

World Horse Welfare's advice is to break the process into small steps and to start well before you need to clip, because it may take several sessions. Only move on when your horse is calm at each step, and go back a step if it's worried. Reward the behaviour you want, standing still, either with a food reward or by taking the clippers away.

Its steps, in order:

1. Turn the clippers on at a distance, such as across the yard, and reward your horse for standing calmly.
2. Gradually come closer, until your horse is relaxed with you standing next to it with the clippers running.
3. Let your horse sniff the clippers while they're off, and stroke it with them, in the direction of the hair.
4. Stroke its shoulder with one hand while you turn the clippers on with the other, held away from the horse.
5. Introduce the vibration: rest the running clippers on your own arm or the back of your hand while it's on the horse's shoulder.
6. Place the running clippers on the shoulder without clipping, then on each area you plan to clip.
7. Clip a small patch on the shoulder.

Some horses need their first clip done in stages: the chest one day, under the neck another. World Horse Welfare says a positive experience matters much more than finishing the clip in one go.

If a horse that isn't used to clippers needs clipping urgently for a medical reason, World Horse Welfare says it may be safest for a vet to sedate it. It doesn't recommend sedating a horse for every clip, because the horse can become needle-shy. If you're struggling, ask an accredited behaviourist for help.

Clipping safely

World Horse Welfare's safety points:

• Wear a riding hat and suitable footwear, and make sure helpers do too.
• Clip on even, non-slip flooring, in a tidy space, with the cable kept out of the way.
• Use a circuit breaker on the plug of corded clippers.
• Check the blades aren't getting hot, oil them regularly and take breaks.
• Clip a clean, dry coat with sharp blades.
• Clean the clippers after every use, and have blades sharpened and clippers serviced.

For whiskers and ear hair, which shouldn't be removed for cosmetic reasons, see how to groom your horse.